Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
